ROUTE AND SITE
There are two routes or tourist circuits for Ranakpur
(Ranakpore):
1.
Udaipur to RanaKpur - Via Gogunda Sayra
This distance from Gogunda is only 100 km. Gogunda is
the highest town, except Mt. Abu, of Rajasthan, with fine
climate and closely associated with the life of Maharana
Pratap. While passing for Gogunda, Iswal is the turning
point towards Haldi Ghati and Kumbhal Garh. In the course
to Ranakpur there are many spots where we can see the
traditional harvesting and irrigation system. This route
is good for real rural tourism.
2. Udaipur to Ranapur via Nathdwara, Kankroli, desuri
After visiting Udaipur and its southern vicinage, proceed
for the next pleasant journey towards north on the National
Highway No. 8 by car or bus. Visit, on the way, Eklingnathjis
temple, Nathdwara temple, Dwarkanathji's temple along
with Rajsamudra lake and its exquisite Nou-chowkis at
Kankroli, and in the last, the temple of Charbhujaji at
Charbhuja. On covering the distance of about 62 miles
of your journey from Udaipur to Charbhuja, drive through
the picturesquely wooded and serpentine glen, popularly
known as Desuri-ki-Nal, cupped by green Aravali ranges
and reach Sadri village via Desuri. From Sadri, divert
on the left to reach the Jain temples of Ranakpur at a
motorable distance of about 6 miles therefrom.
Set in the solitary surroundings on the western lap of
Aravali ranges is a group of Jain temples-a treasure-house
of art and architecture—by the side of a small town
of Ranakpur at a motorable distance of about 100 km from
Udaipur. These temples are also approachable by rail from
Falna on the Delhi-Ahmedabad section of the Western Railway.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
The Chow-mukha (four faced) temple, also called Trai-lokya
Depak at the time of its foundation, is the main tample
of the group. It was got constructed by one Dharna Shah,
Porwal Jain by caste, during the reign of Rana Kumbha
of Mewar in 1439 A.D. for which a piece of land was obtained
from the Rana. The original word 'Ranpur, of which the
current 'Ranakpur' is a changed form, consists of two
words, viz, 'Ran' (to connote Rana Kumbha) + 'pur' (to
connote 'Porwar' to which sect Dharna Shah belonged).
Rana Kumbha, who was a great lover of art and architecture
is also said to have contributed financially to the construction
of the temple. This Ranakpur region was a part of Mewar
during the reign of Rana Kumbha, and hence, this association
of the Rana with the temple. Though no correct idea could
be gathered about the total cost of its construction,
yet, it can conveniently be assessed in figures of several
lakhs of rupees in. the terms of maney-value of the time
as back as five hundred years.
This group of Ranakpur temples is an important teertha
(place of pilgrimage) of the Jain punch teertha of this
region (popularly called Godwad region). The other four
places of pilgrimage are Mushala Mahavir, Narlai, Nadolgram
and Verkana. Other temples of the Ranakpur group are the
temples of Neminathji and Parasnathji in front of the
Chow-mukha temple. The exterior part of Parasnathji's
temple contains many erotic scenes sculptured on stone.
Another Surya (Sun-God) temple is in ruins.
Facilities for boarding & lodging for pilgrims are
available within the premises of the temple. For the tourists
there are many good resorts in Ranakpur.
ART
AND ARCHITECTURE
The Chow-mukha temple is dedicated to Lord Rishabhnathji
or Adinathji, the first Jain Teerthankar. The temple is
three storeyed and constructed on a huge and lofty basement
of 48000 sq. ft. This area of the basement, as an English
expert has said, is sufficient to accommodate a college
of Oxford. Of the four gates of the temple, each opens
in each direction, but the main gate is on the west with
spacious open ground in the front. There are 24 mandaps
of various sizes and 44 gracefully rising devkulikas (spires)
imparting sobriety and sublimity to the whole structural
mass
of the temple. The sobriety and sublimity are further
enhanced by the five grand shikhars (large domes on sanctuaries)
majestically rising behind the array of devkulikas.
On entering the temple one is placed in the serene and
devotion inspiring atmosphere and galaxy of fabulously
rich art and architecture. The whole sculpture of the
temple handled with delicacy and details appears to be
a manifestation of magic of the sculptor's masterly chisel.
It bewilders one's imagination to see as many as 1444
massive pillars containing sculptural decoration on which
the whole heavy mass of the temple has been resting securely
in peace for the last five hundred years. A notable peculiarity
about the pillars is that no two pillars are exactly alike.
The overall impression the temple leaves on the soul and
mind of a visitor is that the whole beauty appears personified
and
stooped—and so the visitor—in complete calmness
and devotion to her gracious Lord.
Another peculiarity about the temple is that its exterior
is studded with erotic poses carved on stone. But. this
aspect of the sculpture is to be understood properly in
the context of the philosophy of Jainism which preaches
in aversion for and renunciation of, the worldly life
full of miseries. There-
fore, keeping in view this cardinal principle of Jainism,
these erotic carvings are to be interpreted as intended
for creating aversion for this worldly life to secure
ultimately the renunciation of the same.
Though,
on account of its secluded location, the temple has been
left quite undisturbed by foreign sacks, yet, it could
not unfortunately escape the notice of Aurangzeb whose
iconoclastic fit impressed its vestiges on some of its
idols whose limbs are consequently found mutilated. How-
ever, the structural grandeur of the whole massive and
expansive edifice of the temple coupled with the superb
beauty of art and architecture sometimes conspires to
claim superiority over Delwara temples of Mt. Abu.
To sum up, the structural grandeur, sculptural dexterity
and artistic and religious catholicity of the temple—all
present an amazingly unequalled blend of all that human
soul and mind could feel, conceive and produce in the
field of art and architecture in that age. To quote Mr.
Furgusson, the engineer-historian, "The internal
effect of this forest of columns may be gathered from
the view (wood-cut No. 134) taken across one of its courts,
but it is impossible that any view can reproduce the endless
variety of perspective and the play of light and the shade
which results from the disposition of the pillars and
of the domes and from the mode in which the light is introduced.
"I know of no other building in India, of the same
class, that leaves so pleasing an impression or affords
so many hints for the graceful arrangement of columns
in an interior."
On account of the solitary and secluded location of the
temple and lack of handy literature therefor, it, for
its architectural grandeur and sculptural richness, is
comparatively less known to the outer world, though mostly
Jain tourists visit it for the darshan of Lord Rishabhnath.
Therefore, a visit to this place will be, for the visitor,
more or less a sort of discovery of the treasure of art
and architecture imparting glory to this solitarily wooded
land.